Initiation in the Monkey Forest

I knew that upon arriving in Bali, I would want to physically see the villa that would be my new home. It is acceptable and even customary to reserve villas online. But I was concerned, cautious, and probably overthought the worst-case scenario too many times. So, I decided to stay in a hotel for ten (10) days to give myself time to figure out exactly where I wanted to stay.

I chose a quaint and modest hotel called Champlung Sari Hotel and Spa, nestled in the midst of an area called The Monkey Forest. The hotel was lovely. There were pools, lots of outdoor seating, each room seemed to have a generous balcony, meeting rooms, and a lovely restaurant. The hotel was in need of some updating, specifically the bathroom, and the TV did not work. But since I did not travel 10,000 miles to watch TV or the news, I did not complain.

Now, in all honesty, I knew that this Monkey Forest area was named because of the monkeys all abound. I was okay with that. What I did not know or expect was that they would be walking around freely with the public.

I remember one evening, soon after my arrival going out to get a bite to eat. I went across the street to a very modern-looking place called Olive Mediterranean Cuisine. I did not finish my meal, as the portion was generous. As with American custom, I opted to take the rest of my dinner in a to-go box. When I got back to the hotel, and as I walked to my room, I was met by an older woman who worked at the hotel. Her face reflected both wisdom and authority. She greeted me, scanned me, and then asked me if she could escort me to my room. I was hesitant and unsure of why, but doing my best to return the kind hospitality that she and the rest of the staff showed me. I agreed, and as we began to continue to my room, she stopped and took something, an object, from a male employee nearby. At this point, I just needed to know what is going on and so I ask her “What is that object?” She pulls it out of her pocket and says “A slingshot. You have food. The monkeys may try to take it from you.” 🫥

And that was my official welcome to The Monkey Forest.

Days later, I came face-to-face with an upright monkey, standing fiercely on the sidewalk. He almost looked like a statue. I was walking towards him and intended to pass him. My mind began to race with recently read articles of tourists getting bitten by monkeys. I didn’t have any food on me. Could he smell my perfume? My thoughts raced. Think Koba, from Planet of The Apes. I did not know whether to cross the street, talk baby talk to him, take off running, or square up. Keep calm, I told myself. They can smell fear. And so I took a big gulp, stuck my chest out, and walked on by him. He did not take his eyes off me. But he also did not move. He let me pass.

That seemingly small victory gave me all the confidence I needed to endure the remaining days in The Monkey Forest. While I love all of Bali, I must admit that I do not frequent that area much at this point. But if I do… in my mind, I have a pact, a peaceful understanding with the monkeys.

We share the sidewalk and the silence. No sudden moves. No fear. Just mutual respect.

I see them. They see me.

And in that unspoken moment, we both remember: this is their forest, and I am a guest.

A guest who walked through, unbitten, unbothered, and now—unmistakably initiated.

I took one step closer to my version of Freedom. What does Freedom look like for you?